Barn Hill

The benefit of travelling like we’ve been doing is that the distance and time means that you’;re alway having to stop in rest areas or the side of the road for a cuppa, lunch or general rest. It also means that everyone else has to too and this forms a handy informal travel advisory forum. People travel N-S or E-W but invariably pass at these impromptu stops. At several of these stops many people had told of us of a place called Barn Hill, 150kms S of Broome.

Due to the difficulty of Amber leaving I thought this might be a good stop for the first night. It turned out to be a very good idea. Although it’s 150kms S Broome, its also 10km E of the main road along a very straight red sandy road. It was a surreal experience that heightened the sense of adventure. Passing makeshift gates with clear instruction to close afterwards the road went on and on. It wasn’t a bad road either but they’d put some sneaky roadhumps to keep the impatient ones (cough cough) on the straight and narrow.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect due to the distance from the main road but it turned out to be a cattle station that happened to have a foreshore border so had turned the area into a basic caravan park. The first sight that greeted me was two couples playing lawn bowls on a makeshift green. The owners weren’t around yet so invited me to watch them play. It was a nice way to spend half hour.

 

For $20pn unpowered I had a generator-free area all to myself, access to hot-ish showers but importantly a short walk down to the beautiful beach. I tried to get into the fishing spirit but the line tangled and left me feeling pretty rubbish. I settled into making sandcastles instead until the sun started to set.

As the site was so remote I decided to stay another night and utilise the beach the second day by trying to fish but the powers that be have obviously deemed my role in the world as not fishing by breaking the reel again. More sandcastles and a rough swim later I called it a day and settled into reading for the rest of the day. The rock formations stretch for many kms both sides of a small ramp that provides access to the beach, which with the road leading in, gives the place a very strong sense of isolation and remoteness. The light here was amazing but to be honest was finding it difficult to concentrate on.

  

The sky was immaculate and brought to life millions of stars and the occasional jet but importantly a shooting star. After the last few days it had felt very lonely and spiritual about things and this star made quite an impression.

 

My neighbours invited me to the evening get together where campers brought their dinner, or cooked on the prepared BBQ and sat around chatting. It was a lovely evening talking to a few people who had plans to visit England but who came from Perth so could bring me some good recommendations on where to go. Much of the chatter around the table was the imminent high tide that would provide perfect fishing conditions, already demonstrated by the sheer numbers of fisherman as dusk settled. Whilst sandcastling, a large threadfin salmon was landed, an amazing sight that I was assured would be very tasty.

‘L’ day

The final day in Broome also saw the arrival of titles beginning with L on the iPod.

It’s amazing how quick these fly past :)

5,000kms

kms

The magic number has been passed since Darwin which is interesting, when you look at the calculations by Google,

Darwin to Jabiru (Kakadu NP) – 254km

Jabiru to Pine Creek –212km

Pine Creek to Darwin – 225km

Darwin to Mataranka – 4222km

Mataranka to Broome – 1660km

Total distance – 2,773km

Have a look here at the journey

Just goes to show how much of a detour you make when you do your own thing!

It also means our warranty on Stan is up so everyone keep your fingers crossed he doesn’t break!!!

การเปลี่ยนแปลงอื่น ...

or “Another change”

The Big Twelve Monther has changed again…

The original plan of Australia, New Zealand and China has changed to

Australia, New Zealand and….

…Thailand

Having to change Amber’s flights it made more sense to do it now and considering all thats happening, a relaxing holiday at the end rather than struggling in a country with a very different culture and language barriers, seemed to be a better option.

Sunset From A Great Height...

.... the title has probably left you all very intrigued so I will waste no time in enlightening you. Tim and I embarked upon a 1.5 hour sunset camel ride along the famous Cable Beach in Broome.
We'd read about the camel rides in Broome and decided this would be a must whilst in Broome. Who could turn down the opportunity to ride on a camel and watch sunset. We definitely couldn't.






The experience was absolutely incredible. We chose to go with a company called Broome Camel Safari's run by Alison who has had over 20 years experience of working with camels. You couldn't get much better than that. And so we arrived at Cable Beach to be greeted by her long line of camels and her very helpful and friendly staff. We were then allocated our camel for the ride.



He looked very placid and gentle and I knew instantly that we'd have a good trip. Before I knew it we were up, up and away. We were seeing the world from a whole different level. I'd seen camels before but never appreciated how tall they actually are.







We rode along the beach being carefully led by Alison, and chatted to our fellow riders as well as the staff. We had our photos taken along the way which was a lovely touch by the staff who seemed to run around like headless chickens all the time.




I said to Tim at one point "I hope they don't run off with our cameras!!" But fear not, after a few shots the cameras where returned safely to us. With the memories captured we sat back and relaxed and enjoyed the very romantic sunset camel ride.






It was interrupted at various points by the sight of the camels pooing and peeing but who can blame them?!?!?!It was over far too quickly and we were soon being lowered back down to Earth. Our final task before we headed off was to feed our camel with a well earned carrot.





What an adventure and one we will both never forget.....

Broomerang

Arrival in Broome was a fantastic experience due to the bright blue skies and holiday feel. Although being on the road is a great experience, it can be a dusty, hot and tiring time and the beaches of Broome seemed a great choice. We both needed some R&R to relieve the tension of being cooped up in the van and the pressures of spending 24hrs a day with each other. Since the Bungle Bungles, it had started to feel as though we’d been going through the motions of visiting national parks and other natural features without really enjoying them. Unfortunately there’s not a great deal to do apart from that in this part of the world!

Broome is the first destination where it’s really felt like being on holiday.

Palm Grove Caravan Park, smack bang on Cable Beach was going to be home for 4 days to allow us to take in the famous sights and sounds although at $38pn powered was a little pricey. Its a popular spot for Australians to visit and many campers were paying for their holiday here next year already! It’s also the kind of place where campers spend many months of the year, normally those from the southern cities and Eastern states during the winter who benefit from the glorious weather.

A friendly face welcomed us at the Wicked centre – our old van from the Red Centre – in for a service too after coming up the middle to Darwin and along to Broome. Stan had his joints massaged to stop bouncing us around and had an all over scrub tightening handles, a good drink, had his shoelaces tied back up and had a big plaster put on his side to stop the flipper window coming off. It’s amazing what you can do with a tube of silicon!

Sad times also found us in Broome early on that threatened our enjoyment of the little town. The strain of being in the van for so long over the last few weeks built up and we decided to have some time apart for a while. This unfortunately meant that Amber’s adventure around WA and South Australia had come to end, flying to Sydney to spend time with her Uncle Joe in Berry, NSW. It was a difficult few days with tears and lots of sadness but will hopefully work out for us both. For the avid reader, you should now hear of two adventures and to avoid confusion have added Amber’s whereabouts on the map!

To get over this sad time, a Cable Beach camel ride was booked. It definitely help lift the mood. Almost before we set off Tim almost managed to get eaten by one feisty camel whose mouth came awfully close to Tim’s leg as the camel took off. $60pp was a little pricey but the sunset ride was definitely worth it. A big thanks to the guys at Broome Camel Safaris who made the adventure one neither of us will forget – Amber’s post on this will follow :)

Broome’s history is a varied one that would take a while to explain but it’s the pearling industry that has made it what it is today. From the early pearl luggers after the shells to the cultured South Sea Pearls available today, every aspect of Broome’s culture has been impacted by the industry. The 1860s started the trend with European companies using local Aboriginal divers to trawl for the pearl shells. Unregulated and being so remote from the early settlements in the South led to an element of lawlessness taking over with no concern for the health and welfare of divers.

Legislation and regulations slowly led to other nations being involved heavily including the Japanese who up until WW2 had a wide involvement. Since the war no Japanese involvement has been allowed. As time progressed and the requirement for pearl buttons decreased, efforts were made to utilise cultured pearls. At first this was strongly opposed but now accounts for the majority of the pearl industry in Broome equalling and exceeding the economic benefits of the early pearling.

A free visit to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm thanks to a friend of our Palm Grove neighbours Jon and Kay, allowed us an insight into this new cultured pearl industry. Pearling tips about how they are created and harvested both on land and on a boat trip and afternoon tea included too :)

 

 

Amber even tried on a necklace worth $60,000!

  

A drive round Broome found the glorious Town Beach with playgrounds, water parks and picnic areas,

the Wharf that transformed Broome into a major economic hub of Australia by having the capacity to import and export goods using deeper draft vessels and

Gantheaume Point, home to 120million year old dinosaur footprints visible at low tide, or via a plaster cast any time :) The point is protected by a lighthouse due to the incredible coastal rock scenery formed by the huge waves of the Indian Ocean, that would be treacherous to passing vessels.

   

Our visit coincided with the closure of the Shinju Matsuri, or festival of the pearl, that celebrates the multicultural involvement with Broome’s pearling industry. Fireworks on Cable Beach closed the festival following 10days of events around the town. A live music stage had been entertaining the crowds all evening whilst market stalls provided the culinary delights from the countries involved. A very exotic steak sandwich was our dinner followed by many cans of XXXX. It was here where the Isle of Wighters, Jon and Kay met a fellow Wighter, Natalie who organised our tour.

The morning before Amber’s flight saw us flock to Cable Beach to see what all the fuss was about. It truely is one of the world’s greatest beaches stretching for kms and full of squelchy white sand. The water was beautiful and very refreshing for an early morning frolick. It’d be a shame not to be able to stay here for the many months the grey nomads manage to achieve. It was a fitting end to Broome.