Out on the road

The distance between Broome and Melbourne is vast, almost 6,000kms. Before this trip, the word ‘vast’ was used very few times. Bournemouth, working 9-5 and having friends and family so close meant that it wasn’t needed and rightly so. Out in NW Western Australia, hours can go past without seeing any other traffic, change in scenery, property dividers (hedges, gates and walls), animals and birds so the word ‘vast’ becomes properly used.

This creates many causes for concern. Firstly, water, although Stan is carrying a whopping 60litres. This may seem a lot but think about what it could be used for. Not only drinking, recommended 10litres a day, but washing and cleaning. Then think of the impact if things went wrong!

The second cause for concern is fuel. Can I get to the next place? Stan’s tank is approx 50-60litres (I’ve never let it run down all the way!!!) that should give approx 400-450km range. Hopefully this will be enough. Just in case, the 20l additional capacity should provide a little further down the road.

Roadhouses are Australia’s interpretation of the UK’s dull service stations. There’s not a Little Chef in sight and each are completely individual in character with many providing accomodation, cafe, fuel, shops etc. The only downside is that the fuel prices can be very high approx $1.80ish, but still relatively cheap compared to back home and is proving to be the biggest expenditure I’m facing.

The third is accommodation. Fortunately one of the priorities for WA is road safety. The majority of deaths on Australian roads is death due to fatigue so investment has been directed into developing the rest areas and laybys for truckers and the public to use rather than continuing on tired. One such area was De Grey River Rest Area underneath a huge concrete bridge crossing the De Grey River. It was a strange night with the constant rumble high above until the early hours but a wonderful sight for photos and importantly safe and away from the main road.

Fourthly, being on my own. There’s not much I can do about this I suppose after Amber’s flight to Sydney but will try and talk to fellow travellers as much as possible. This is one of the benefits of the rest areas and caravan park setup in WA and especially this time of year as many are escaping the cooler temperatures down south.

The setup of choice for these heat-seekers is the Toyota Landcruiser and Jayco caravan but there are many types visible on the North Western Coastal Highway. 6berth motorhomes, some towing smaller cars, dedicated outback trailers, A-frame trailer tents, buses modified as campers, standard cars and tents are just a few but the creme de la creme.was a long 52seater coach towing a car transporter trailer that had a Suzuki 4WD and boat carried on top. It seemed as though the Landcruiser was the vehicle of choice but other 4WDs are just as visible.

Due to the long drive and the infrequency of passing traffic it was customary for the polite wave to follow. Wicked vans were often the most eager with frantic gesticulations greeting Stan but other campers, cars and motorhomes followed suit. I had hoped to get a blast on the air horn from a road train but to no avail. One night in a rest area sitting around a fire with a family armed with a shortwave radio attempted to get a blast but also didn’t work… I also saw one camper with a sign in the window saying ‘hello’ to save waving at everyone!!! Cheeky!

The main destination from Broome is Port Hedland, a major export port that is the busiest in Australia and in the top 5 ports in the world for annual tonnage primarily focussing on iron ore but also talc, salt, livestock and manganese. If you’re not into big ships, mining. long trains or general industrial type things I’d recommend not staying here long. It’s an expensive stopover $44 powered at the only caravan park so refuel, recharge and resupply and head on. It is however a good example of how local businesses support the community.

 

   BHP Billiton are the primary exporter of iron ore and main industry in the town employing the majority of the town. To look after the community BHP invest a percentage of their profits back in, through grants financing public art, green spaces and parks. It did get a little tedious seeing “Proudly supported by BHP Billiton” everywhere but was a positive sign of their social responsibility. I’m unsure what will happen when the iron ore runs out..only time will tell!

   

Barn Hill

The benefit of travelling like we’ve been doing is that the distance and time means that you’;re alway having to stop in rest areas or the side of the road for a cuppa, lunch or general rest. It also means that everyone else has to too and this forms a handy informal travel advisory forum. People travel N-S or E-W but invariably pass at these impromptu stops. At several of these stops many people had told of us of a place called Barn Hill, 150kms S of Broome.

Due to the difficulty of Amber leaving I thought this might be a good stop for the first night. It turned out to be a very good idea. Although it’s 150kms S Broome, its also 10km E of the main road along a very straight red sandy road. It was a surreal experience that heightened the sense of adventure. Passing makeshift gates with clear instruction to close afterwards the road went on and on. It wasn’t a bad road either but they’d put some sneaky roadhumps to keep the impatient ones (cough cough) on the straight and narrow.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect due to the distance from the main road but it turned out to be a cattle station that happened to have a foreshore border so had turned the area into a basic caravan park. The first sight that greeted me was two couples playing lawn bowls on a makeshift green. The owners weren’t around yet so invited me to watch them play. It was a nice way to spend half hour.

 

For $20pn unpowered I had a generator-free area all to myself, access to hot-ish showers but importantly a short walk down to the beautiful beach. I tried to get into the fishing spirit but the line tangled and left me feeling pretty rubbish. I settled into making sandcastles instead until the sun started to set.

As the site was so remote I decided to stay another night and utilise the beach the second day by trying to fish but the powers that be have obviously deemed my role in the world as not fishing by breaking the reel again. More sandcastles and a rough swim later I called it a day and settled into reading for the rest of the day. The rock formations stretch for many kms both sides of a small ramp that provides access to the beach, which with the road leading in, gives the place a very strong sense of isolation and remoteness. The light here was amazing but to be honest was finding it difficult to concentrate on.

  

The sky was immaculate and brought to life millions of stars and the occasional jet but importantly a shooting star. After the last few days it had felt very lonely and spiritual about things and this star made quite an impression.

 

My neighbours invited me to the evening get together where campers brought their dinner, or cooked on the prepared BBQ and sat around chatting. It was a lovely evening talking to a few people who had plans to visit England but who came from Perth so could bring me some good recommendations on where to go. Much of the chatter around the table was the imminent high tide that would provide perfect fishing conditions, already demonstrated by the sheer numbers of fisherman as dusk settled. Whilst sandcastling, a large threadfin salmon was landed, an amazing sight that I was assured would be very tasty.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzz

The East coast of Australia has been a great adventure allowing us to see and experience all manner of beautiful things; from World Heritage Sites to spectactular sunsets, camping on isolated islands to chopper bikes. Using the Greyhound coach network has made this possible moving us from town to town, experience to experience with minimal fuss and hassle.
One thing though has been more of a gamble; accomodation!



We've stayed in all manner of places, all with their own atmosphere and environment, people and staff and importantly cost and value for money.
Simple things like hot showers, clean toilets, walls (yes, you read right!), curtains, comfy mattress, no infestations become essential topics of conversation on the road.

Good places are recommended, bad ones aren't. The power of websites like TripAdvisor and HostelWorld isn't taken for granted and I have to admit before we left was a little sceptical about how they actually worked, but listening to hostel owners and managers its like having big brother watching you!

We were fortunate to have many lovely places to stay;
Inn Crowd in Singapore,



Pippies at Rainbow Beach,





Emu Park Beach Resort,





Enid on the Whitsundays,




Bungalow Bay Koala Village on Magnetic Island





and Cape Trib Beach House in Cape Tribulation.






(Obviously the best place was Jan & Pauls in Brisbane!!!)

Other weren't so bad and had the basics;
YHA Rockhampton




Beaches in Airlie Beach, Grand Hotel in Bundaberg,





Cool Bananas in Agnes Water





and Caravellas 149 in Cairns.



The only place that we couldn't recommend was Globetrotters in Townsville due to no walls, cramped space and next door to a loud bar. The facilities advertised were also out of action and minimal thought to food supplies in the kitchen.



Most of our accomodation was based on dorm styles costing between $15 and $25 per night with doubles costing approx 2.5-3 x cost of single dorm bed. It really isn't that bad, if you're thinking about it, just be sensible. Lock expensive things away and keep the other stuff on you.



Hostelling is great fun. You meet so many like-minded people and if you're doing lots of guided tours or going in the same direction, its very likely you'll see them again. We met up to 6 people in one place from our travels!



YHA cards are useful, but don't get as much discount as you might think although we had booked a lot through Tribal so the cost would have been heavily discounted anyway



It's very easy to get (in the Vauxhall Zafira accent!!) "overtired" from the sightseeing, scuba diving, kayakking, drinking etc etc so don't underestimate the importance of sleep and rest. Our top tips are:

1) ear plugs and face mask - snoring is second only to partying in the dorm as a cardinal sin and/or you could end up near a door!

2) use your towel as a curtain - helps with reducing light and increasing privacy in a lit and busy dorm

3) if you're up and out early pack the night before - it's courteous to fellow travellers and saves bashing into everything bleary eyed (Amber take note!!!)

4) sleeping bag liners - most places will give you a sheet, but not all will provide extra blankets so the liner will give you a bit more warmth but without the bulkiness

5) if you're on a tight budget think about working for your accomodation. most smaller places won't be offended if you ask, whilst others may proactively advertise