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Wednesday, 28 July 2010

Reef Magic

was the name of the company recommended to us by Kate & Stu from their trip to the Great Barrier Reef so took them up on it and also went with with. What a recommendation it was..thank you guys! It was brilliant!



Another bright and early start meant no lie in but had a cheeky McDonalds on the way down. I've later found out that this could possible be one of the worse foods to eat prior to diving due to the high fat content...oh well..
Cairns is THE place for Great Barrier Reef diving so much so that a purpose built Reef Terminal has been built just in front of the marina to deal with the enquiries and check ins for all the main companies. It's a vast impressive building and certainly creates a feeling of professionalism when you turn up to dive.




Our on board photographer took our boarding photo and made sure our names were on stickers that we'd wear for the rest of the day whilst on deck. This was a clever move as it meant all the staff could address you by name creating another impression that they'd all remembered your name...It took quite a while before I sussed that I still had my sticker on!




The second part was the medical that threw up the shocker of the holiday - Amber's asthma and past medical history meant that the dive doctor couldn't clear her to scuba dive. It was a real stunner that shocked us both and almost put a downer on the whole day before we'd even started. Determination kicked in not to ruin it so booked Amber in for a massage, helicopter ride and a joint adventure snorkel later in the day.




The site, named Marine World, was a fixed pontoon 60nm out to sea that had a reowned good part of the reef underneath. We've since found out that the company's site and hospitality has a good reputation in Cairns that led to Queensland Tourism taking a supermodel out to promote themselves using Reef Magic the week before.



Marine World had plenty of space to accomodate the day cruisers, sun deck, massage area, various boarding decks for the helicopter and submersible tours, children's snorkelling area and lifeguard patrolled main snorkelling area. It also had plenty of seating for lunch and general rest so was very well appointed.




My first dive was also the first of the day and for some reason didn't have a 'buddy' so had the dive instructor watching my back.



Giant Trevally or GTs were circling the Moon Pool, where the scuba divers had to demonstrate basic skills before being let loose underwater.



The dive consisted of linking arms with the dive instructor who gave you an underwater tour of the reef's fish and corals...




.. including 'Wally', the local Humphead Maori Wrasse and various sea cucumbers. I was under for 25mins and dived to a depth of 7m but seemed like an eternity!






Being underwater is just like the screensavers and pictures you see but with an added 25% to give you the tone, shadow and colour. It was truely incredible and one of the best things I've ever done. I was hooked so booked another secondary dive for the afternoon.






Amber's 30min massage certainly chilled her out before the helicopter ride. Unfortunately it was only a 5mins flight but she did see groups of reef from above and another angle for the day. The spectacular rings highlighted the different depths of water and was hopeful of seeing some wildlife but to no avail.



Amber was back before I so had a quick refreshment on board,





Before the free underwater submersible with the clear bottom. It worked out very well the timings and the boat's design was equally good. Bench seating in the keel that had clear windows all along.





More fish and corals were explained to everyone via commentary from a guide with us. The standard blue photos came out but have been told to play with the red settings and they may come out a bit better!

A superb buffet lunch consisted of breads, vegetables, prawns, fresh fruit, couscous, curry and rice, vegetable lasagne..it went on and on...





The second scuba dive was equally if not more impressive. This time it was a private tour accessing parts of the reef the first dive didn't cover and rather than being linked allowed me to swim and dive unaided. The feeling of weightlessness and freedom was like nothing experienced before. The breathing through regulators can be, on the first dive, quite suppressing making you feel trapped but the second dive is more comfortable as you're more relaxed. I could have dived for ever...air withstanding...and managed to see an abundance of different fish and coral...too many to detail. The quiet, the colour, the environment was magic.






The afternoon adventure snorkel was quite an adventure. It was advertised as a guided snorkel tour with a marine biologist which sounds good but when you think about it a bit more could prove more difficult. It wasn't and in fact was extremely well done. Groups of 12 went into the sea at high tide that created currents around the reef that would aid our swim. Every few metres our guide would drop her head underneath to see what was there and then explain to the group. The benefits of snorkelling is that your ears can still be above the water when you're face down. It was quite surreal being so far out at sea yet in a group getting a tour about the Great Barrier Reef but just brilliant.






More refreshments were provided on the way back whilst the photos were organised and printed for those that wanted to. For those that had scuba dived a certificate was presented by the dive instructor and could if need be be used as proof for a certification. I wonder if I'll get the chance in Alice Springs????
Just so you, some of these photos were taken by the photographer on board in case you were wondering? Can you guess which ones?

All Was Dark & Damp..

..but on gazing upward I saw the tree-tops flooded with the most brilliant sunlight, which occassionally penetrated through the branches...

As we ascend, the landscape gradually grows wilder and more picturesque...

The palms are replaced by gigantic tree ferns which here, in the damp rocky clefts, spread their mighty leaves in all their splendour over trickling brooks, which frequently disappear in little waterfalls down steep precipices...

The effects of light and shade are magnificent here, the scenery is simply overwhelming in its splendour."



Carl Luomholitz, a zoologist, wrote this quote in 1883 to describe on the most beautiful places in the world, the Daintree Rain Forest. This particular rain forest is one of the World Heritage Sites and this part of North Queensland is the only place in the world where two World Heritage Sites meet. The other course being the Great Barrier Reef.



Our day trip into the Daintree was to visit a stunning village inside the forest, Kuranda, by way of the SkyRail and Kuranda Scenic Railway (KSR). Kuranda sits within the Barron Gorge National Park. Total travel cost $200-ish but completely worth the effort and provided us with one of the most relaxing days of the trip!




SkyRail is a cable car system that crosses over the rainforest for 7km. It was built in 1995 and can carry 700 people per hour. The facts alone don't do this any justice. The pylons, supporting the cables and carrying the cars, are located in thick rainforest in very inaccessible places and had to be installed using specially purchased Russian helicopters due to their weight.



First impressions were standard. Very slow cars are emptied and filled by un-enthusiastic attendants in a similar vein to any other cable car system around the world, however, its only 15 seconds once you've left the station that the 'wow' factor hits you.




You're instantly high above the forest, amongst the same treetops that Mr Luomholitiz referred to back in 1883 looking down on vast natural history and the traditional lands of the Djabugay people. You feel very small in the car as you start ascending the high lands around Cairns only realising the scale when you pass road trains below you looking like toy cards and when rather dramatically the car just stops..




SkyRail isn't just a cable car tourist attraction; it's a method of transport over the rainforest that allows you to see firsthand their importance. It stops at several places to allow you to get out and follow designed boardwalks with information boards to give you a chance to understand the forest you've just crossed over.





Amber & I were lucky that the day wasn't clear blue and hot and instead was overcast with patchy rain.
The rain brought the forest alive with small mammals, insects and birds scurrying around us, an enclosed atmosphere that made it seem the trees were growing faster that they were and all the earthy smells of growth and decay.







The second stop gave the first glimpses of Barron Falls. This "place of great natural beauty has a unique storied past, and holds great significants to the local Aboriginal rainforest people (Djabuganydji Bama)." The story is detailed in the photo below.








It took us several hours to get us to Kuranda but with the sensory overload of the rainforest and all the associated details within it, it was almost a suprise that there was a final destination. The slow descent down passed over the Daintree River, home of many hungry crocodiles so fingers were kept firmly crossed there were no final dramas.







The little village of Kuranda was delightful with many art galleries of both modern and Aboriginal focus, clothing, crafts and jewellry outlets for different budgets and importantly lots of places to eat.







Two of our favourite places here was the Stillwater Workshops and the Sugarworks Fudge Bar.

The shop still used a traditional method to make 'kisses' or soft chews (a bit like Chewits if you've left them in the car!!) with an original 19XXs machine that chopped, wrapped and sealed 1500 in a minute! Apparently this is 1/10th of modern sweet chopper, wrapper and sealer machines in the 21st Century!!!
You could see the original mix being made, moulded to the right size..



and then fed into the machine to do its thing...



.. and chuck out the final product right before your eyes.



Again the important bit was that you could try one of the final sweets as it popped out and still warm...you wouldn't be suprised now to hear that a packed of said final product was then purchased...




The Sugarworks Fudge Bar was incredible. There's no other word for it. Loads of different rich flavoured fudge and a delightful lady who was on hand to offer us samples. Vanilla, macademia, Braveheart (Blue Curacao and Whisky, mixed into a bright blue and white fudge), chocolate, the list goes on. After what seemed an eternity a $10 tub with the standards was purchased with a challenge to not finish it within the afternoon...unfortunately they didn't last much longer than 2 hours...




Kuranda has a hippy culture underpinning the village that originates from the early traders and settlers who had to pay for the railway to transport customers to them. It became so popular that eventually the railway created a stop here. Tie-di, hemp clothing, herbal remedies, organic oils, smoothies, you name it it could be found here.






The modern day Kuranda also has the local Aboriginal culture running through it with galleries and culture tours available, paintings and didgiridoos for sale etc. With it, however, is a difficult balance that has to be struck. 'Authentic' Aboriginal culture sits alongside 'Tourist' Aboriginal culture but without any strict regulation or guidance for tourists to use. Even 'Authentic' didn't necessarily mean authentic as often the capitalist markets lead local Aboriginal communities to sell out to souvenir companies...?




After several hours wandering around it was that horrible time. Time to leave.




We'd chosen the KSR to take us back to Cairns direct (there were many varying options that you could choose so be careful when you book!) and met a native Australian on holiday from the US travelling with children so had a good natter for the good few hours back missing the commentary.




Waterfalls past us by but a scheduled stop at the other side of Barron Falls on the site of the original railway station allowed a few photos.






It was a long day but a lovely one and definitely worth the little bit of effort to get there.